Como defendernos de los Chemtrails, cómo hacer CHEM-BUSTERS?

How to Make "Chembusters" (CB's)

From Don Croft & Ken Adachi's "Goodbye Chemtrails, Hello Blue Skies!" on Educate-Yourself.org.

What Is a Chembuster?

History of the Cloudbuster
The Wilhelm Reich Cloudbuster was well known for its ability to create rain. But a problem existed with its continued use, in that the deadly orgone energy that it absorbed could in fact hurt the operator if it was not correctly "drained off". This "draining off" of deadly orgone energy was accomplished by 1. Connecting the Cloudbuster to a body of running water (difficult) or 2. Connecting the Cloudbuster output to an orgone accumulator. However, the orgone accumulator would soon become saturated with the deadly orgone energy which in turn caused more problems for the operator. So the Cloudbuster, as good a technology as it is, has lain dormant for many years.
The Cloudbuster Re-Invented
By utilizing the research of Wilhelm Reich, we have created a cheap, portable and easy-to-build device that  consistently destroys Chemtrails and heals the atmosphere. The  “Chembuster” is the answer to these ongoing attacks. Unlike the original Cloudbuster, the CB changes the deadly orgone energy to good orgone energy and does NOT become saturated or dangerous to the operator.  You can build one for about $150.
Join The Battle - Now!
It is human nature to sit on the sidelines and think that one person cannot change the things that are happening to our country. You now have no excuse for inaction. For a few dollars and a few hours of your time YOU can make a difference.
A properly constructed CB unit should be able to greatly reduce the effects of chemtrails for about 45 miles in all directions (90 mile diameter) from the unit.  If used with Slim Spurling’s environmental tools, and a few extra crystals, the diameter can be increased to about 120 miles in all directions.
With this device a mere few hundred concerned citizens can SHUT DOWN the multi-billion dollar chemtrail program. The Chembuster cannot do any damage. It can only help and heal. It’s up to you to join the fight to save America.
Chembuster Construction Details

Chembuster Materials

Set pipes in bottom spacer

Middle Plywood Spacer

CHEMBUSTER DIRECTIONS

BUCKET: Base: 9" in dia., 9" deep. I use two-gallon plastic buckets from the Home Depot paint department, but two-gallon food buckets, available from restaurants, or two-gallon spackle buckets from drywall contractors are fine. Leave the buckets on, as the handles make it easier to move the finished Chembuster.
COPPER PIPES: Six standard Type M, 1" copper pipes, 6' long, open at one end, the capped ends submerged to within an inch or so of the bottom of the bucket before casting. For portability and shipping, you can use 12” sections of pipe in the base, adding five-foot lengths by putting couplers between the 12” and five-foot pieces. You won’t need to buy as much copper pipe this way, too.
CRYSTALS: I glued a double-terminated (two pointed ends) quartz crystal, about 2" long, into a .75” section of garden hose, (or use electrical tape) then, glue to the inside of each of the six copper end caps, pointing in the same direction as the pipe will be after the cap is glued on. I use 'Goop' glue. Tape, or solder around the cap where it joins the pipe to prevent resin from leaking into the cap during casting.   (Note) Another option is to add one citrine gemstone to each pipe before adding the crystal, this smoothes the CB’s energy and helps to transmute negative energies. However, citrine does not seem to make the CB any more effective at eliminating chemtrails.
METAL PARTICLES: Get some metal particles from a machine shop, recycling yard or a place where they saw a lot of aluminum (sign shops and aluminum fabrication shops are good places to look). I use aluminum for weight considerations, but ANY metal will do. Very fine particles (such as filings from a key-making machine) aren’t quite as good as ones that will easily go through a ½” screen are okay. There really is a wide margin of suitability!
PLYWOOD: Template 1 - 3/4” exterior plywood is used to make the base for the copper endcaps/pipes. I arrange the six pipes evenly around a 2 1/2” radius circle, which makes the pipes 2 1/2” apart on centers. A flat, 1 1/4” auger bit drills a suitable hole for each end cap.
Template 2 - Make another piece to fit inside the rim of the bucket. Remember to cut a section away so you can fit your fingers under it to remove it from the bucket. This piece is not part of the finished CB, just used to get the spacing for the pipes right during construction. Cut the holes in this with a 1 1/8” flat bit so that it will fit well over the six pipes. This piece will hold the pipes in position while the second batch of resin hardens.
Template 3 - I make a circular plywood spacer for the top ends of the pipes, 4” radius with 1 1/8” holes on the same 2 1/2” radius circles for the pipe ends. This keeps the pipes parallel with each other and fairly rigid.
 

Not to scale  Widest circle is 9 1/8”
RESIN: I use polyester resin (used to build fiberglass boats), but epoxy also works, as does Envirotech resin from www.eti-usa.com (this sets up very quickly, so you need to be proficient with it). If you are going to construct many of these units, try to purchase your resin in 5 gallon buckets over the internet, possibly from a surfboard or boat manufacturing supply company. Home Depot gets $24 per gallon for resin.
On a level surface, pour an inch or so of catalyzed resin into the bottom of the bucket and stir in metal particles until the surface is uniform and flat. CAUTION:  Resin fumes are flammable; use in a warm, but well ventilated area.
The ratio that seems to work is approx. one part resin to one part metal particles (equal volume of resin to metal particles). Put the base Template 1 onto that before it hardens, so that it just touches the surface and doesn't sink in much. Pour a half gallon of catalyzed resin into the bucket after the six pipes are set into the holes in the base template. Use the dowel to stir in handfuls of metal particles in the same ratio as before. Note that the wood Template 1 should not be pushed down to the bottom of the bucket with the resin squishing over the top.
Carefully move the Template 2 down on to the six pipes until it is snugly within the rim of the bucket. Put the top Template 3 onto the top of the pipes and move them until the pipes are parallel. After the resin has hardened, remove the second template and set it aside. This is only used during construction, as I mentioned.
You can finish off putting the resin/metal mixture in now in two stages if you want, up to within a half inch of the rim of the bucket. Now it’s finished (wait until it hardens before you move it. You will actually use about one gallon of metal shavings and 1 ½ gal. of resin.
A MONEY SAVING SUGGESTION, ALSO FOR BETTER PORTABILITY:
Cut six pipes, 12" long, and put the crystals/endcaps on them for the base. Buy six coupler joints which allow a pipe to come into them from both directions and stop at the middle. This allows you to make the rest of the pipe assembly from three pipes, 10' long, cut in half. The finished product leaves you with only one piece of pipe, four feet long leftover.
When positioning the 12" pipes for pouring the second layer of mix, temporarily tape the top ends of the 12" pipes so no metal particles are dropped in them by mistake.
After the mix is made, take off the tape and push the rim plywood piece down onto the pipes so that it fits into the rim of the bucket.
Put the spacers (soldered if desired), then the 5' pipes onto the 12" base pipes, then put the third (top) plywood piece onto the 5’ copper pipes.
The pipes will look skewed, most likely, so just twist the top plywood piece around until the pipes line up parallel. As you do that, the rim plywood piece will move around. You need to do this expeditiously, though not in a hurry, so that the resin doesn't harden before you're done.
We experimented with 5' extensions to the pipes to increase the range. It had a strong effect on the moon and on the upper atmosphere of the planet for hundreds of miles. We also apparently shut down the weather warfare facility under Homestead Air Force Base by leaving the extended Chembuster pointing at the dead orgone field above it for a week.
We found that we don't need to point it in any particular direction in order to clear the atmosphere of bad orgone, and the longer it's left standing, the nicer it feels for a longer distance from the Chembuster (many miles). We just stand it on its bottom, pointing straight up. We did once eliminate a belt of smog, which was just off the coast by aiming at it for a few minutes, so direction can be a factor.
Chembusters destroy chemtrails consistently. It may take a few days for your Chembuster to activate the environment enough to do this, but after that point the spew will disappear within seconds of leaving the UN jets and dissipated trails that drift within range of the Chembuster will also disperse, but more slowly. The ones that are made up of solids take longer to dissipate, but we’ve found that these only make up about 10% or so of the spewing episodes.
Dr. Reich’s Cloudbusters were extremely dangerous when in operation since he had no orgone generator attached to them. Bad orgone does carry a charge which can quickly drain one’s life force away when it’s concentrated in one spot. It's similar to a strong positively charges static electrical field. When cloud cover is unproductive or unbalanced (too much lightning, for instance, or too much rain) the Chembuster busts it up.
It also may help stop drought. Overall, it just balances the weather, I think it sort of mediates between the ground and the atmosphere somehow. The one in Namibia, Africa finally brought heavy rain to the desert there. It happened 9/5/01, and continued for several days. Gert, the fellow who made the Chembuster and reported the occurrence ( http://educate-yourself.org/africasfirstcloudbusterjun01.html ), told me that this had simply never happened in the Namib desert before to the best of anyone's knowledge. It's arguably the driest region on the planet.
WARNING: If you touch the pipes when they’re drawing in strong unbalanced or dead orgone and don’t put your hand on the base after that, you may experience headaches, even into the next day, as a friend of ours did recently.
Mind you that our efforts, though somewhat pioneering, should be seen mainly as a springboard for further developments rather than the last word.
SUGGESTION: If you want even more rain, try putting water on top of the material in the bucket and/or hosing down the whole apparatus daily.  In freezing climates, cover the top of the six pipes with mini umbrellas so water can’t freeze and shatter the crystals.  The CB appears to effect chemtrails equally well whether it’s placed indoors or out.  Up to seven crystals can be placed in each pipe to improve performance.

http://www.orgonite.info/

Como defendernos de los Chemtrails, que es el Orgonite?

 

COMO DEFENDERNOS DE LOS CHEMTRAILS?

Existe una tecnica efectiva y comprobada que sirve como sistema de defensa que uno mismo puede implementar para combatir a estas estelas genocidas, se trata de un arma creada a mediados del siglo pasado por el padre de la Orgonomia el Dr. Wilhem Reich y cuya base consta en la fabricacion de un aparato conocido como el "Cloudbuster", el aparato pued...e ser construido con ingredientes convencionales y de forma casera, su funcionamiento y eficacia se basa en el uso de la energia Orgonica la fual es una especie de mnifestacion eterica de energia que poseemos todos lo seres vivientes y que esta a su vez se divide en energia DOR (Negativa), OR(Neutra) y POR (positva).
Este aparato puede transformar todo tipo de manifestacion energetica que sea dañina para el ser humano (como los chemtrails por ejemplo) por energia tipo POR

A Brief History of Orgone Research

In the 1930's and 1940's, Dr. Wilhelm Reich was able to detect and measure the existence of etheric energy (life energy, chi, etc.), which he called orgone, using a modified geiger counter.

Dr. Reich determined that stacking alternating layers of fiberglass (an organic substance) and steel wool (an inorganic substance) would actually attract and collect orgone/etheric energy of both the life-beneficial positive form (which Reich called "OR" or "POR") and harmful negative etheric energy ("deadly orgone" or "DOR").

He constructed large boxes called orgone accumulators or "oracs" using this simple layering principle and was able to successfully heal his patients of various ailments, including various forms of cancer, by having them sit inside the box for periods of time.

In 1986, scientists at the University of Marburg, Germany published the results of a blind study¹ which showed that 30-minute orgone accumulator treatments caused consistent, positive psycho-physiological effects not seen with the all-fiberglass box used for a control, stating "the results received in our investigation furnish evidence for the assumption that the physical properties of the orgone accumulator and its psychophysiological efficacy on human organisms, postulated by Reich and his associates, factually exist."

Reich's work was continued in earnest in the 1960's by more open-minded Russian scientists such as Dr. Nikolai Kozyrev (1908-1983), who also scientifically proved that such unseen energies indeed exist all around us, and who's Reich-inspired work led to the unfortunate development of practical Soviet military defense applications which utilized principles of so-called "torsion fields" (e.g., etheric energy). Kozyrev's work, which indeed confirms both Reich's research and our empirical experiences with orgonite, was classified until the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991.

Following in their footsteps, thousands of Ph.D.-level researchers from both sides of the Iron Curtain spanning multiple generations have continued Kozyrev and Reich's pioneering work, slowly forcing mainstream Western science to finally, "officially recognize" the concept of a universal, unseen energy medium they call "dark matter," "vacuum flux" or "zero-point energy," depending on who you ask. It is commonly understood among orgonite enthusiasts that these are all essentially describing the same thing, which Reich called "orgone".

The Advancements of Orgonite

Reich built his research lab, dubbed Orgonon, in rural Maine, USA, as this location was at the time very isolated from sources of "deadly orgone," which his accumulators would collect indiscriminantly. Operating an orgone accumulator near sources of DOR (such as nuclear power plants, radio towers, etc.) has the potential of harming anyone receiving treatment inside it, so geographical location was and is an important factor for orgone accumulator operation.

In 2000, a couple named Don and Carol Croft discovered through some Internet research and empirical observation that mixing catalyzed organic fiberglass resin with inorganic metal shavings, poured into small molds such as paper cups and muffin pans, would produce a substance which would attract etheric energy similarly to Reich's accumulators.

Carol Croft, gifted with a keen sense of discrete energies, realized the significance of this finding and took it a step further by adding small quartz crystals to the mixture for their ability to efficiently collect, transmute and emit etheric energy. This addition to the resin/metal matrix creates a substance which functions as a self-driven, continuously-operating, highly efficient DOR→POR (negative to positive) energy transmutation factory.

When orgonite is within range of a source of DOR/negative energy, it will efficiently and continuously transform it into POR/positive energy as it is being transmitted, which essentially creates positive energy transmitters out of any and all emitters of harmful negative energy, which are totally defenseless against the effect.

The resin in orgonite shrinks during the curing process, permanently squeezing the quartz crystal inside which creates a well-known piezoelectric effect inside the crystal, meaning its end-points become polarized electrically. It is believed this is also what causes the orgonite to function so effectively as a positive energy generator.

Thus orgonite represents a very significant improvement over Reich's early work with orgone accumulators, since Reich's "oracs" attract deadly orgone energy as well as positive and do nothing to transmute it into a purely beneficial form, which orgonite does inherently and continuously.

Within a year of this development, Don began publishing reports of his and his wife's experiences in, among other things, the tactical deployment of small pieces of orgonite near any and all sources of DOR, or life-negative energy, such as cellphone towers, nuclear power plants, underground bases and natural Earth energy gridlines and vorticies. Don included in his reports the specific life-positive, cleansing, healing, confirming effects they would notice following such "gifting" activities, causing Don to strongly encourage his readers to replicate his efforts in their own communities.

Cloudbusting: Then and Now

In addition to his effective health treatments, Dr. Wilhelm Reich also utilized his advanced knowledge of discrete energies to build and successfully test a weather modification device called a "cloudbuster", which operated on the principle that clouds are held together by orgone energy, and removing this energy causes clouds to rapidly disintegrate. Reich developed a superior weather prediction model which took into account the otherwise-ignored etheric component of our weather and produced more accurate weather predictions than the popular and incomplete "pressure system" model.

Reich's cloudbuster consisted of a set of turret-mounted metal pipes connected by rubber tubing to a body of water for energetic grounding which would dissipate clouds by draining the orgone energy holding them together and, with careful and time-consuming effort, significantly alter overall weather patterns, in some cases intentionally causing the complete reversal of drought conditions in the desert in a matter of months.

Reich's design was proven very effective as intended, but could also be very dangerous if mis-handled. Large amounts of DOR accumulate in the pipes during operation, and even momentary contact with bare skin has caused some operators everything from intense pain to long-term paralysis, simply from brushing past the pipes with a bare leg.

Don Croft has invented a more advanced, effective and safer version of Reich's cloudbuster called a chembuster which combines the original cloudbuster's basic operating principles with the advantages of orgonite.

A typical chembuster consists of 6 six-foot copper pipes embedded in a base of orgonite (typically poured in a paint bucket) with double-terminated quartz crystals in the base of each pipe to create an etheric energy vacuum effect which literally sucks the negative energy from the sky within a several mile radius into the orgonite base where it is then transmuted into harmless, beneficial positive energy. Unlike Reich's cloudbusters, chembusters can be safely left in continuous operation where they will quickly restore and maintain atmospheric energy balance within an area. In drought-stricken regions of the globe, this always occurs in the form of rain sufficient to end the drought conditions. This has been successfully demonstrated in variuos parts of Africa, California and in many other locations around the world by various dedicated individuals.

The infallibly-beneficial nature of orgonite eliminates the need for special training, safety precautions, or rigorous effort to operate a chembuster, since it simply transmutes any negative energy it attracts from the atmosphere while the rest of the device functions as an etheric vortex generator, actively balancing the energy between sky and ground, eliminating smog/air pollution and negatively-charged artificial cloud formations called "chemtrails", replacing their spreading blanket of poisonous DOR clouds with the deep blue skies and puffy white natural clouds we all remember from childhood.Detailed instructions for building your own chembuster (which costs about $150 USD using all new materials) can be found in our section on How to Make Orgonite.

The Orgonite Gifting Movement

It has been the experience of many chembuster enthusiasts that the widespread deployment of digital cellular communications towers across the populated areas of the world in the last several years has created a thick blanket of DOR/negative energy which saturates our homes and communities, promotes drought, negativity, fear, etc., and significantly hinders chembuster operation (among many other detrimental effects).

However, it has been widely experienced that these negative effects can be disabled and chembusters can be made to start working properly again simply by tossing or burying small muffin-sized chunks of orgonite called TowerBusters (TB's) near all the cellphone towers in their area, an increasingly-popular activity which has become known as "gifting", and is conducted literally all over the world now by thousands of selfless and highly-dedicated individuals and Internet-organized groups.

This site is intended to provide a basic, accurate, efficient introduction to orgonite for those interested in learning more about it. If you wish to perform further research, we have a comprehensive list of informational resources in our Further Reading section.

The positive, self-empowering effects of working with orgonite quickly become obvious to those who choose to make and use it. If you are interested in seeking your own confirmations of it's effectiveness, please visit our section on How to Make Orgonite to find out how you can begin to improve the energy and create real beneficial changes in your home and community.

Go get orgonized!

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Bibliography:

¹Müschenich, S. & Gebauer, R.: "Die (Psycho-) Physiologischen Wirkungen des Reich'schen Orgonakkumulators auf den Menschlichen Organismus [The (Psycho) Physiological Effects of the Reich Orgone Accumulator]", University of Marburg (W. Germany), Department of Psychology, Dissertation, 1986.

 

How to Make Orgonite "TowerBusters" (TB's)

From Don Croft's Gifting Compendium:

1. I use non-stick muffin pans but of course the resin contracts as it cools, so even the cheaper ones work fine.

2. While you're in MalWart getting those pans, and if you don't have any little pieces of quartz on hand, go to the craft section and get the mesh bags of tumbled rocks (the smaller rocks). Pick out the quartz and other crystals. You can also get bits of quartz from the soil or streambed if you have a clue what to look for. The cloudy, even white, broken bits are just as good as a ten dollar Herkimer Diamond, of course, for this application.

If you opt for the dollar bag of MalWart polished stones and are unsure that you can spot quartz on the ground or creekbed, find the ones that are semi-transparent and/or dirty-looking inside. The white ones are often just marble, which is not as good as quartz but is adequate for TBs. You can get suitable quartz crystals by the pound from Gladys Bridges. but I mention WalMart to show you that it's not hard to find ingredients. Gladys sends out distinct quartz pieces that are between a quarter and a half inch long. You get a LOT of crystals in a pound.

3. Drop a small xtal in each muffin mold. I often use a broken just a dirty, broken crystal chip about the size of your little toenail but if you're new to this you likely won't feel confident doing this. My confidence is based on a couple of years of towerbusting experience, so I know that a TB with a funky little chip will bust an average Entropy tower and I'm stating it for the record.

4. Fill the molds almost to the top with loose metal. Remember that 3oz is sufficient and that the molds are each 4oz. I want you to get the absolute most bang for your hard-earned or even lazily-obtained buck. 3oz of orgonite in a holly or juniper bush is sufficient for busting most of the single transmitters you'll encounter and even for turning those frowns of a chapel-full of devil-hating churchgoers upside down.

5. Pour the resin in by stages until it comes almost up to the brim of the mold after you've put the metal and crystal in. If the metal is too fine to permit the resin to soak through before hardening, mix the metal with the catalyzed resin, then spoon it in like you're making cornbread. You're probably going to learn the hard way to mix in the catalyst first. I'm still learning that lesson from time to time ;-)

6. When I'm going to toss out a bunch in town, I paint them green and brown (camo scheme). You'll be surprised how difficult these are to find once they've been tossed.

http://www.orgonite.info/